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Permsteading.com • View topic - My First REAL RMH Build

My First REAL RMH Build

Rocket Mass Heaters, Rocket Ovens, Cold boxes, Solar collectors, etc..
Talk about your projects

Moderator: matt walker

My First REAL RMH Build

Postby Oddmar » Fri Apr 05, 2013 6:46 am

In my 'Newbie' thread, i built a prototype Rocket stove from doubled duct work and vermiculite, then started to build a rocket mass heater for a friend which ended up being just a good rocket stove barbecue. When i tried to rebuild that to make it lighter it fell apart.

I'm the kind of fellow who peruses the internet and books for months doing research, spends alot of time making detailed plans, re-does the plans a couple times, then it never gets done because i can't afford the materials.
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I moved from central Illinois to central Arkansas back around Thanksgiving. Partly because on trips down here to go to a major 4-wheeling event with my friend i fell in love with the fresh air and forested countryside, partly to help my now-disabled friend build a 30x48 shop.

They will be living in the back of it when the bank repos their double-wide trailer house in the next couple of days. We have totally run out of money but have gotten the roof on the new building and the walls halfway up...my friend says he and his brother n sister have lived in worse conditions for months in the past, so they'll survive until we can afford the tin to enclose the building.

When we get it completed we'll open a 4x4 truck shop, do vinyl signs & graphics, aerial photography, and maybe sculpture, so money ought to start trickling in soon.

I built my first 8" rocket mass heater over the last month. The thermal mass is a little short, so the exhaust stack gets hot enough i can only lay my hand on it for a couple seconds. But it stays cool enough for safety.

I remember Mat saying he had to leave the windows and front door open for awhile because his first build was cooking him out of the house. I remember 'Fisherman's Daughter' saying "We have to lay on the floor to breathe". The one-room cabin I built after i moved down here is only 12'x12'. I've found out what y'all experienced firsthand. (Pant...Pant....Gasp)

My friends and friends of theirs who've stopped by to help with the new shop construction are very impressed that 6 hours after i've had a short fire in the RMH, the cabin is 80°.

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The feed chamber, burn tunnel, and heat riser are all built from 2"x4"x9" firebrick, cemented together with Rutland refractory cement. The feed is 8"x7" (oops) for a CSA (Cross Sectional Area) of 56 sq in. The burn tunnel ceiling is 8" down from the top lip of the feed chamber. The burn tunnel is 6"x7" for a CSA of 42 sq in, and 10 inches long. I formed a 'Peterburg' tripwire 4" in on the ceiling of the burn tunnel from refractory cement smeared to a sharp ridge. I've yet to build Peter Vandenburg's fresh air injection plate in the front of the feed chamber.

The heat riser measures 7"x7" inside for a CSA of 49 sq in, close to the CSA of an 8" round pipe, 50.24 sq in. From the ceiling of the burn tunnel to the top lip of the heat riser it is 40". This is four times the length of the burn tunnel, and drives the system very well. The top of the heat riser is 2.5" or so from the 'top' of the drum. I don't have a pyrometer yet so i dunno how hot the drum is getting...but it turned a neat shade of blue near the top.

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I welded together a three-legged metal stand for the drum to sit on, and built the largest exhaust plenum i could. I'd heard other RMH experimenters warn about choking the system by making the exhaust hole from the drum too small. It is 18" wide, 3.5" high over the burn tunnel to 7" high by the back of the drum (more room). That descends 20" sideways to become 10"x10", then feeds into an 8" tee for the ash cleanout. The pipe inside the thermal mass is 8" and about 18' long before it exits the mass and turns upwards into the exhaust stack.. That's a little short for this unit but i didn't have any more room.

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Since this picture was taken, i've filled the thermal mass bench with a mixture of clay-rich dirt, limestone shale, and alot of gravel. I placed broken concrete chunks and melon-sized rocks everywhere they wouldn't impede the flow of fill around the pipes. The tube nearest the room is barely covered and the one by the wall is half covered...that's how i've been running it so far. I'll dump in more mass when i have some spare time, but moving all that weight is exhausting work. I'll probably mix up a soupy batch of red clay and pour it over the last batch of gravel i put in, to fill the small gaps around the gravel chunks and thereby improve thermal conductivity.

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The drum ended up being about 5" from the drywall, too close for comfort. So i put sheet metal up on the wall with a 1/2" air gap between it and the drywall. Air can get in the bottom and flow upwards to keep it cooler and help heat the room...like i need another source of heat...lol. I put tinfoil everywhere else i thought it might get hot for added safety.

The T in the exhaust stack is there so i can burn a little paper in the stack to get the air moving in the system, to make it easier to start. I welded metal tabs to some expanded metal mesh, then ran self-tapping screws through the T into the tabs. The mesh sits level with the bottom of the cap...a platform to put crumpled paper on and keep it from falling down the pipe. Then i light the paper, quickly pop the cap in place, and light twisted paper to stick in the feed chamber. The air being pulled into the burn tunnel by the hot updraft in the exhaust stack sucks the flame through the kindling, starting the system with minimal flame in my face.

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Today i folded a 30"x10" piece of 'hardware cloth' (metal mesh with 1/2" holes) twice to make a heavy screen to lay over the feed chamber when i need to go up the hill to the construction site and can't stay to mind the fire. That should keep embers from popping out and setting anything ablaze. I try not to leave it while it's running but sometimes ya gotta.
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Re: My First REAL RMH Build

Postby dave brenneman » Fri Apr 05, 2013 11:58 am

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Re: My First REAL RMH Build

Postby pa_friendly_guy » Fri Apr 05, 2013 2:23 pm

Great job oddmar. The metal behind the unit does add a level of safety. I have heard that metal sheets on 1" spacers effectively doubles the distance to the combustible wall. Did you use cement board behind the stove I couldn't tell from the pictures? That would add another level of protection to the wood studs. If you are still worried I think add more cobb behind the unit should take care of your concerns. I liked the idea of the stack T to aide in lighting the stove, That was a very good idea. I am sure that it will heat the small cabin quite nicely.
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Re: My First REAL RMH Build

Postby matt walker » Fri Apr 05, 2013 4:40 pm

Wow Oddmar, so nice! Congrats on the move and the new start, it sounds exciting. The heater is freakin' great! That's probably the best plenum I've seen to date. I bet that thing draws like crazy. The larger feed shouldn't be a problem since you will run it slightly restricted most of the time anyway, I imagine.

I would do the clay slip idea you mentioned to fill the gaps and improve heat transfer. However, like you said, you've probably got more heat than you know what to do with. Really great to see your work, thanks for sharing it here.
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Re: My First REAL RMH Build

Postby mannytheseacow » Fri Apr 05, 2013 8:52 pm

Oddmar, you RMH looks great!!! This is the first one that I've seen that appears to fit right in with new construction. Watch out, RMHs might go mainstream. :lol:

I really like how you've done your bench. How do you intend to finish the wood?

Great job!
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Re: My First REAL RMH Build

Postby Oddmar » Sun Apr 07, 2013 8:13 pm

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Re: My First REAL RMH Build

Postby Nutcase » Sun Apr 07, 2013 8:20 pm

Very nice! are those low density insulating firebricks or high density?
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Re: My First REAL RMH Build

Postby Oddmar » Mon Apr 08, 2013 5:04 am

Probably high density...solid, heavy...not soft like soapstone.

Purchased from ACME Brick in Malvern Arkansas.

The ones we got are 2-1/8" thick, 4" wide, and 9" long, which don't stack well at all. 2.125 x 2.125 is 4.250...stood next to another brick they are 1/4" different in height. 4" x 4" is 8", an inch shorter than the length...annoying when you are trying to build a firebox. They told us the bricks measured 2-1/4" x 4-1/2" x 9"...we didn't find out different till a month later.

The other ones they have are 1-1/4" x 4-1/2" x 9", what i would consider 'normal' thin firebricks. I'll get those next time.

The thin ones cost $1.89 ea.
The thick ones cost $1.99 ea.

I forgot to say I put a piece of aluminum sheet (it was in the junk pile) around the sides of the burn tunnel, and around back of the heat riser. There's about a 1-1/2" gap between the sheet and the firebrick, which i filled with vermiculite. The idea was to keep the firebrick separate and insulated from the dirt fill that surrounds the unit.

After much searching and perplexed looks from locals, I had basically resigned myself to not finding Vermiculite in Arkansas. I figured i'd bring back 10 or so 3 cu. ft. bags of vermiculite when i return from putting a roof on my mom's house in Illinois next month. Last week my friend's sister found vermiculite locally somewhere, $20 for 4 cu. ft. I was buying it for $15 for 3 cu. ft. from Menard's in Pekin, Illinois...same value.
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Re: My First REAL RMH Build

Postby Nutcase » Mon Apr 08, 2013 6:18 am

Thanks for the further details. I imagine that with that much mass inside the insulation, your system takes a while to really heat up, but once up it stays hot for a long time. How long after it runs down to coals can you go and still get a stick to ignite without help? My systems cool off below easy reignition in, say, 15 minutes.
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Re: My First REAL RMH Build

Postby Oddmar » Fri May 03, 2013 4:30 pm

Once again last night it dropped down to 39°F...i didn't Really need to run the heater, but i did cause it's neat.

One load of wood, loosely filling a space 14"x7"x8" (the feed chamber), burned for about 40 minutes. I stayed up long enough to see it burn down to dark red coals...then i put a metal lid over the feed opening to keep it from drawing air all night and cooling the mass off by convection.

It was comfortably warm in the cabin for 8 hours. It was still nice in the morning but i stepped outside and was shocked by how chilly it was. So i started it up again and heated up some water to make coffee and Ramen noodles for breakfast.

Burning the stove a second time in less than 10 hours made it really toasty inside. I opened the window and after awhile it was comfortable again. The weather forecast says it'll be 38°F tonight. That will mean i'll have to burn a third shoebox-sized amount of wood to keep it 70°F till morning.

By the way, i've opened the ash clean-out cap several times expecting to get at least a cupfull of ash out...but so far there's not enough to bother with. That's about three weeks total firing this stove and not even a handfull of waste ash...hmmmm.

I guess to answer your question Nutcase...if there are bright coals the stick will light right up...dark coals it may ignite or just smolder...and yeah, about 15 minutes from the last wood burning down to coals, to a mostly dark but still hot feed chamber...time to put the lid on.
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