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How would/should this tree be pruned if at all?

George, I'm not very experienced, but I'll give you my opinion anyway. I would do nothing this year and let the tree use all of that foliar area next summer to build roots next fall. Then, the following mid winter I would prune based on what shape I was going for, open center, main leader, etc.

I have been off line for awhile now, our computer fried and we just got a new one working, more or less. I think Matt has a good idea there George, let it go at least until spring if not another full year. I do not know why the one branch has not gone dormant, but it seems to be fairly vigorous, why not let it go awhile and see what happens. Strictly from an appearance point of view the side branch should go, along with the 2 lowest branches on the main stem. But since a pretty fruit tree is not a good producing fruit tree you may want to see which stem has the most vigor next spring and prune according to that. Some of my old fruit trees are very misshapen and I still get fruit from them. I have to admit that my pruning efforts these days are geared more toward the ease of mowing , and not geared toward maximum fruit production. Fruit trees are very resilient once the roots are established so giving the tree an extra year to make sure it has established a viable root system is not a bad idea. I know you are chomping at the bit to start pruning, because somebody told you that pruning increases yields, and you want the maximum yield as soon as possible. That tree will not produce any fruit for a couple more years, don't worry, you have plenty of time to cut the heck out of it later.